Three families, one confusing market
Chemical peels are one of the most evidence-based treatments in aesthetic medicine, but they're also one of the worst-explained. Most clinics talk about "peels" as a single product. They're not — and choosing the wrong family for the wrong skin is how you end up with the wrong result.
There are three main families. AHAs. BHAs. TCAs. Each works on a different layer of the skin and addresses a different concern. Knowing which is which transforms your ability to choose wisely.
AHAs: surface-level brightness and texture
AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acids. The two most common are glycolic acid (smaller molecule, penetrates faster) and lactic acid (larger molecule, gentler and hydrating).
Glycolic peel. Strong surface exfoliation, evens tone, brightens, reduces fine lines. Best for resilient skin, dullness, and early signs of ageing. Mild flaking for two to three days post-treatment is normal.
Lactic peel. Gentler. Hydrating as well as exfoliating. Ideal for sensitive skin, dehydrated skin, or first-time peel clients. Minimal flaking, mostly a "glow" effect.
AHAs are surface-level peels. They are excellent for tone and texture but don't reach deep enough to remodel collagen significantly.
BHAs: oil control and acne-prone skin
BHA stands for beta hydroxy acid. The dominant one is salicylic acid. Unlike AHAs, BHAs are oil-soluble, meaning they penetrate into pores and break down oil and dead skin from within.
Best for oily skin, acne-prone skin, congested pores, and post-acne discolouration. Often combined with AHAs in blended peels.
TCA: structural change
TCA stands for trichloroacetic acid. It is a deeper, more aggressive peel that works at the dermal level — where collagen lives. TCA peels stimulate genuine remodelling of skin structure, not just surface exfoliation.
Best for fine lines, post-inflammatory pigmentation, melasma (carefully), acne scarring, and significant sun damage. Downtime is real — five to seven days of visible peeling — and the result is significantly more substantial than AHA or BHA alone.
TCA peels are powerful and require careful clinical assessment. They are not for all skin types, and the risk of post-inflammatory pigmentation in darker skin is real if performed incorrectly.
How to choose
For a "before-event glow" with no downtime: lactic peel. For dullness and texture: glycolic. For oily, congested, acne-prone skin: BHA-based blend. For significant skin remodelling (sun damage, fine lines, scarring): TCA. Many clients benefit from a course over time rather than a single peel.
What I pair peels with
For maximum effect, peels work beautifully alongside other treatments. A course of three to four lactic peels paired with Profhilo gives a luminous, hydrated finish. Medik8 home-care between peels extends the result. For pigmentation, I often combine TCA with oral tranexamic acid (prescription) for a comprehensive approach.
What to expect
A peel itself takes 30 to 45 minutes. AHA and BHA peels have minimal downtime. TCA peels have several days of visible peeling. All peels require strict SPF discipline afterwards — sun exposure on freshly resurfaced skin causes pigmentation.
Booking a peel
The right first step is a consultation rather than booking a specific peel. Choosing the wrong peel for your skin wastes money and can make things worse. I'll assess your skin properly and recommend the right family — or sometimes recommend you don't peel at all, and we work on something else first.
